Tanjung Setia, Pesisir Selatan

Located in the Pesisir Selatan district of Lampung province Sumatra. Tanjung Setia would be just another wide spot on the W. Trans Sumatera Hwy if it wasn't for the discovery of Karang Nyimbor (Ujung Bocur) surf break.

During it's Golden Years the area comprised a few surf camps dotted along a dirt road that faded out into a narrow goat track. No Wifi, hot water or air-conditioning was the standard. Though the road is now paved hot water and air-conditioning are still considered a luxury. The Wifi is as reliable as the power grid which goes down regularly.

It’s definately not a classic beach holiday destination where you can enjoy an evening walk along a sandy beach while you watch the sunset or hangout in trendy bars sipping cocktails by the pool.

Perhaps that’s it’s charm?

That in a world of overblown hyped up holiday packages, trendy cafes and plush accommodation such a utilitarian tourist destination as Tanjung Setia can exist at all.

Tanjung Setia Beach Area

Jl Pantai Wisata is the main drag of Tanjung Setia beach. A 1.9km long mishmash of old and new resorts, with a few cafes, souvenir shops and private villas. It has a quaint village atmosphere where everybody knows everyone. There is no hard sell tourism here and even during peak season there is nothing much going on.

If your expecting to find Bali as it was 40 years ago ... think again. Thankfully Tanjung Setia was never and will probably never be like Bali. The local population is conservative Islamic, many are intolerant of foreign tourists and most do not rely on the tourist dollar.

The serpent in paradise

The entire ocean front is privately owned property and monitization of Ujung Bocur and the beach has been the driving force of development. Walls and fences blocking free public access to the ocean and breakwalls protruding beyond the high tide mark now dominate the area.

If your looking for a good walking beach Mandiri 15 minutes north is your best option.

Unfortunately it's reminicent of the unsustainable development that jeopardizes many tourist destinations and almost destroyed Fiji's surf tourism industry. Early implementation of a Sustainable Tourism Strategy may be the only way to ensure both community inclusivity and industry sustainability.

For now Tanjung Setia Beach remains a destination for international tourists with only one thing in mind ... chasing their next wave.

Accommodation

The bulk of the accommodation along JL Pantai Wisata is still surf camp style where the theme remains fairly constistent. Surf, eat, drink Bintangs and sleep. However facilities and vibe vary considerably.

At the cheaper end of the scale you have shared rooms with a fan and cold water showers. Mid range includes resorts like Lovina Krui Surf with swimming pool, restaurant, karaoke bar and air-conditioned rooms with hot water. Top of the range are the beach front villas with your own private swimming pool, car and driver.

The Health Resort scene never took off here and Sumatran Tiger Resort and Fitness is the only place offering an environment for the health conscious traveler.

Cafe's, Restaurants and Food

Asian food aficionados used to the variety and quality of food in the restaurants and markets of Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and Bali are in for a surprise.

Indonesian Cusine

Foreign tourists tend to eat at their accommodation or hang out together in the few cafes that cater to Westerners. You seldom see them eating in local warungs or visiting the local markets. As a consequence most if not all warungs cater to local tastes and budgets. Meals are very basic. Chicken or fish with rice or noodles and a side of temphe and chilli is the standard. Vegetables are not popular with the locals so it's unusual to find them on the menu.

  Dress appropriately when you go out to eat. If you don't you may not be welcomed and the integrity of your food could be in question.

Western Cusine Cafés & Restaurants

Authentic western café style food can be enjoyed at the ever popular Lani's. There are no à la carte or table d'hôte restaurants that serve authentic western cuisine in Tanjung Setia or Krui. Nor are there any vegetarian / vegan restaurants or popular fast food chains like McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Domino's Pizza.

Coffee Shops

Leafy's on Jl Wisata Pantai is the first and only western style coffee shop.

Fresh Fruit and Vegetables

Sumar Jaya: public market is open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. It has a limited selection of fruit and vegetables but can have good fresh fish. Get there around 7am or you will miss out.

Biha has three small shops where you might find a few old carrots, sweet potatoes, beans, bok choy, garlic, ginger and herbs. Next to the AlfaMart is a fruit store that sells watermelons and sometimes has other seasonal fruit.

If your looking for a larger selection of quality produce you will have to ship it in from Liwa or Pringsewu.

Seafood

Fresh cheap seafood is what Tanjung Setia excels at. Black marlin, sailfish, yellowfin tuna, dogtooth tuna, wahoo, narrowbarred mackarel, giant trevally, mahimahi, barracuda and a host of smaller species are caught in the local waters. The fishermen sell their catch at the end of Jl Pantai Wisata and at the Sumar Jaya market. Surprisingly there are no cafes or restaurants that specialise in seafood dishes.

  Avoid eating chicken after a long power blackout as many places don't have backup generators for refrigerations.