Tanjung Setia, Pesisir Selatan

Aerial shot of Tanjung Setia beach

Located in the Pesisir Selatan district of Lampung province Sumatra. Tanjung Setia would be just another wide spot on the W. Trans Sumatera Hwy if it wasn't for the discovery of Karang Nyimbor (Ujung Bocur) surf break.

During it's Golden Years the area comprised a few surf camps dotted along a dirt road that faded out into a narrow goat track. No Wifi, hot water or air-conditioning was the standard. Though the road is now paved hot water and air-conditioning are still considered a luxury. The Wifi remains patchy and as unreliable as the power grid which goes down regularly.

It’s definately not a classic beach holiday destination where you can enjoy a long evening walk along a sandy beach while you watch the sunset then hangout in trendy bars sipping cocktails by the pool.

Perhaps that’s it’s charm?

That in a world of overblown hyped up holiday packages, trendy cafes and plush accommodation such a utilitarian tourist destination as Tanjung Setia can exist at all.

Jl Pantai Wisata Tanjung Setia 2013 Jl Pantai Wisata Kri Pro 2022
Jl Pantai Wisata left 2013 right 2022

Tanjung Setia Beach Area

Jl Pantai Wisata is the main drag of Tanjung Setia beach. A 1.9km rundown mishmash of old and new resorts, with a few cafes, souvenir shops, private villas and abandoned ruins. It has a quaint village atmosphere where everybody knows everyone else's business and nothing goes unnoticed. There is no hard sell tourism here and even during peak season there is nothing much going on.

Tanjung Setia beach 2024 Tanjung Setia beach 2024

For now Tanjung Setia Beach remains a destination for international tourists with only one thing in mind ... chasing their next wave.

Surfing 2 meter day at Ujung Bocur

Accommodation

The bulk of the accommodation along JL Pantai Wisata is still surf camp style where the theme remains fairly constistent. Surf, eat, drink Bintangs and sleep. However facilities and vibe vary considerably.

At the cheaper end of the scale you have shared rooms with a fan, cold water showers and leaking roofs. Mid range includes resorts with swimming pool, restaurant, karaoke bar, air-conditioned rooms and hot water. Top of the range are the beach front villas with your own private swimming pool, car and driver.

The Health Resort scene never took off here.

Cafe's, Restaurants and Food

Asian food aficionados used to the variety and quality of food in the restaurants and street markets of Thailand, Malaysia and Vietnam are in for a surprise.

Indonesian Cusine

Most if not all warungs cater to local tastes and budgets. Meals are very basic. Chicken or fish with rice or noodles and a side of temphe and chilli is the standard. In this area even Chicken Satay is seen as a specialty item. Vegetables are not popular with the locals so it's unusual to find them on the menu.

  Dress appropriately when you go out to eat. If you don't you may not be welcomed.

Western Cusine Cafes & Restaurants

Authentic western cafe style food can be enjoyed at the ever popular Lani's. There are no à la carte or table d'hôte restaurants that serve authentic western cuisine in Tanjung Setia or Krui. Nor are there any vegetarian / vegan restaurants or popular fast food chains like McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken and Domino's Pizza.

Coffee Shops

Leafy's coffee shop is the closest thing to a fast food chain you will find in the Krui area with new outlets poping up as fast as mushrooms.

Fresh Fruit and Vegetables

Sumur Jaya public market is open on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. It has a selection of seasonal fruit, vegetables and fresh fish. Get there around 7am or you will miss out.

Biha has three small shops where you might find a few old carrots, sweet potatoes, beans, bok choy, garlic, ginger and herbs. Next to the AlfaMart is a fruit store that sells watermelons and sometimes has other seasonal fruit. A public market is held on Tuesday and Friday in the field next to the Nurul Iman Mosque.

Those looking for a larger selection of quality produce have to ship it in from Pringsewu or Bandar Lampung.

Seafood

Fresh cheap seafood is what Tanjung Setia excels at. Black marlin, sailfish, yellowfin tuna, dogtooth tuna, wahoo, narrowbarred mackarel, giant trevally, mahimahi, barracuda and a host of smaller species are caught in the local waters. The fishermen sell their catch at the end of Jl Pantai Wisata and at the Sumar Jaya market.

  Avoid eating chicken after a long power blackout as many businesses don't have backup generators for their refrigeration.

Health and Fitness

The only gym in the area was closed in 2026. There was once a large pool used by the public but that seems to now be unused / closed down. There are no health retreats or spas. The only activity still remaining in the area is surfing at Ujung Bocur.

The serpent in paradise

The entire ocean front is privately owned property and monitization of Ujung Bocur and the beach has been the driving force of development. Two meter high concrete walls and fences block free public access to the ocean and breakwalls protruding beyond the high tide mark now dominate the beach.

Where once you could park your scooter for free under the shade of a beautiful Jambu tree and head out for a surf. Now there are no free public parking areas. Instead you will be greated by an aggressive local demanding that you pay them if you want to go surf. If you'd rather not reward such an unpleasant introduction to the local community you can park your scooter out on the road along with others who feel the same.

  You do not have to pay to surf at Ujung Bocur.

It's understandable why more and more surfers are chosing to stay in the Walur and Krui area and many once premium resorts along Jl Pantai Wisata are for sale or in a state of disintegration.

Perhaps when "The Goose That Laid The Golden Eggs" has almost been killed some of Indonesia's famous Gotong Royong will be extended to the surfing community that put Tanjung Setia on the map.

laneway to Ujung Bocur surf break 2015 access-to-Ujung-Bocur-2024.jpg
Tanjung Setia Beach 2015 A beach front danger zone in 2024
Beach access 2017 and 2024

Unfortunately it's all reminicent of the unsustainable development that jeopardizes many tourist destinations and almost destroyed Fiji's surf tourism industry. Implementation of a Sustainable Tourism Strategy may be the only way to ensure both community inclusivity and industry sustainability.